ON TREND |
August 2023
Writer and Journalist Eric Twardzik for Gladson New York. Photo by @rcallahanphoto.
Suitably Fit
SUITS ARE BACK, SO FIND ONE THAT FITS PERFECTLY FOR COMFORT AND STYLE.
John Russel Jones
At recent events in the menswear world, tailored clothing retailers and vendors alike were in great moods because suit sales are up as men return to offices and realize — even if they’re only dressing up for events like weddings and job interviews — that wearing an outdated, ill-fitting suit just doesn’t cut it.
As Jorge Saez of Artigiano Coral Gables, a Floridabased custom tailor put it at a recent panel discussion, “…the work uniform may be dead, but the wealthy want to set themselves apart. They want to wear something special, and a suit elevates whoever is wearing it.”
Jewelry Innovations
Rugged Tungsten™
with Black Ceramic
Inlay, Stone Finish
MSRP $204
800.872.6840
Jewelry Innovations
Black Ceramic,
Solid Gold Inlay,
Thor Hand-Finish
MSRP $1,242
800.872.6840
It’s something to keep in mind, not only for yourself and store staff, but also for customers. Our advice? Get to know the men’s stores and tailors in your town and point customers in the right direction, especially if you see they’re shopping for an engagement ring or a graduation present that may indicate a big event on the horizon.
Of course, wearing a suit isn’t like pulling on a pair of jeans and a T-shirt. To be comfortable, it needsto fit right- and when one does fit right, you’ll feel as though you were wearing those comfortable items! For that there’s a range of options that will work for almost any budget. Even if a vintage sport coat is picked up at the local thrift shop, spending a few more dollars at a reliable tailor can make it fit better and wear like a favorite broken-in denim jacket.
Know your terms!
Just like fine jewelry, it’s important to know what to look for. If you’ve got the means and the inclination to make a purchase that also becomes an experience, have a bespoke suit made. The very highest level of suit making, bespoke indicates that a tailor will draw a unique pattern by hand based on your measurements. Creating a bespoke suit will require several fittings and a lot of time. (Do not embark on this path when realizing that you’ve got a formal affair in two weeks. Allow yourself several months and look on it as an experience to be savored over time.) The tailor will work with you to design something that works well with your body, expresses your personality and tastes, and that is of the highest quality to stand the test of time. You can also get a personalized touch at madeto- measure or custom shops. Very often a fine gentlemen’s clothing store will offer these services as an add-on to their “off-the-rack” sales. Here a tailor will take some measurements and make subtle adjustments to an already existing pattern to create something that fits most men quite well.
Smiling Rocks
Men’s lab grown
diamond solitaire
ring in 14K
white gold 2.00ctw
MSRP $8,249
212.596.4163
Samuel B.
Sterling Silver 8.5” Flat Tulang Naga
“Kadek Bracelet”
MSRP $479
516.455.1826
You’ll be able to select your own fabrics and buttons, as well as have a choice of double-breasted, versus single, various lapels, pleated trousers, etc. It is usually a given that even if you’re going for the merchant’s standard off-therack suits that you’ll also spend a little time with his tailor making sure that the suit’s sleeve length is just right, that the trousers are finished at the hem to your liking, and that a few adjustments are made here and there to the jacket, so you look your best.
These days there are even high-tech options like MTailor, available where customers use apps and the camera on a smart phone to make a body scan. Thousands of measurements are then sent to factories that automatically print out a pattern and create suits, shirts, and even sportswear to fit.
Phillip Gavriel
Men’s Silver Gunmetal Box Link Bracelet,
Ruthenium Plated
MSRP $565
800.622.0960
“…the work uniform may be dead, but the wealthy want to set themselves apart. They want to wear something special, and a suit elevates whoever is wearing it.”
Legere by Kelly Waters
Sterling silver open faced
ID bracelet with black
rhodium flexible band
MSRP $200
800.647.7017
Finally, if pressed for time or budget, we highly recommend checking out suit separates. Most department stores off this option now where customers can purchase differently sized jackets and trousers, picking sizes that fit them best. If possible, we still recommend asking the department store’s tailor, or the alterations person at your dry cleaner to make a few adjustments, making sure that the length, seat, etc., are all the best they can be.