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October 2023

Jazzin' For Blue Jeans

John Russel Jones

This American classic is making a surprise appearance in today’s corporate dress codes.

Fashion history tells us that when the economy is doing well, fashion silhouettes gain volume, literally using more fabric. After World War II’s utilitarian, ration-friendly apparel, Christian Dior exploded proportions with his New Look, using as much as 15 yards of fabric for a skirt alone. In the 1980s we saw the longest peace-time economic expansion on record (according to the Bureau of Labor Statistics), and the clothes we wore reflected that newfound opulence. Something must be afoot, because from suits to jeans, the European runways have been showing a looser, drapier, altogether more relaxed silhouette. For those of us who remember, it’s not unlike those “bigger is better” days of the 1980s when Giorgio Armani’s easy, sexy suiting rocketed to popularity when seen in the movie American Gigolo, and on television’s Miami Vice.

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Here’s the conundrum, though: just like trickle-down economics, sometimes it takes a while for those runway looks to make their way down from the designer’s atelier, through the high-end boutiques, and into our favorite local menswear emporium or department store. And that may be why, although the United States economy seems to be doing well, the look that has supplanted the classic “suit and tie” combo in most modern workplaces is a classically styled sport coat worn with a dress shirt, and a classic pair of five-pocket jeans in a conservative straight-leg fit!

That’s right: the blue collar-rooted, all-American archetypal workwear item has become the corporate uniform for a new age. (It’s fitting that this trend would take hold when Levi Strauss is celebrating the 150th anniversary of its iconic 501 jeans model.)

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Now, when putting together your own look, or providing guidance for your store’s corporate dress code, keep a few basics in mind, because not any pair of jeans will do.

1) The style is popular because of its comfort, and a modern pair with a little stretch adds a touch of luxury. Look for silky Tencel (a fiber made from tree bark) and even cashmere blends that take that rich feeling to a whole new level.

2) Although many early 2000s styles are making a comeback, ripped-and-repaired denim is not one of them, certainly not at the corporate level. Keep it fresh and clean. Dark denim is safest, although lighter, “silverey” shades will be making an entrance next spring.

3) Jeans aren’t just made in true-blue indigo denim anymore! Watch for the five-pocket style in elegant earth toned twills and even soft-touch knit fabrications!

4) Look great while doing something nice for the planet, too! Sustainability is key to most modern denim brands so watch out for organic and recycled cotton blends. Natural dyes also provide tonal, earthy hues with a lighter carbon footprint.

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Today’s jeans also look great with the ubiquitous lightweight down and fleece vests and ¼-zip pullovers that young guys can’t get enough of. To keep things dressy, we prefer paring those with solid dress shirts, perhaps with minimal striping, or quiet gingham patterns (you may even want to wear a necktie!). Plaids can work, but they do take the look in a more casual direction. Similarly, keep belts simple and elegant, and finish the look off with this season’s runaway footwear hit, loafers. Chelsea boots are also a nice touch or a pair of updated contemporary sneakers (not the ones you wear to the gym).