Timeless Allure: Antique Design Eras As A Source For Inspiration
Sherrie Anne Taylor
Antique and vintage is a large umbrella encompassing many stylistic movements which include the opulent lacy looks of the Edwardian era, the geometric patterns of Art Deco design, and the less gem intensive Art Nouveau designs with curved owing lines. Early in my studies as an appraiser I became intrigued with studying jewelry history. Enthusiastic about the unique motifs, characteristics, and materials each design movement offers, I compiled a guide for myself that I still reference today in my appraisal practice. The jewelry history timeline is expansive and there are many incredible design eras of the past that jewelry designs of today draw inspiration from.
Georgian Era Rose Cut Diamond
Victorian Era Navette Ring
Since I am no longer working in a retail setting, when I have the opportunity to visit jewelers and browse luxury design houses online, I nd myself picking up on the use of different elements recirculating in a modern way. It’s beautiful to see the current interpretation of these elements and materials as we seem to be in an exceptionally creative time where consumers are seeking jewelry that’s meaningful while re ecting their unique personal style.
A snapshot of history for context.
Georgian Era 1714-1830
Early Victorian Era 1837 – 1860
Grand Victorian Era 1860 – 1875
Late Victorian Era 1875 -1901
Arts & Crafts 1890 -1914
Art Nouveau 1895 – 1915
Edwardian 1901 -1910
Art Deco 1920 – 1930
Retro Modern / Art Modern 1935 – 1955
(Reference -Year ranges from the Master Valuer Texts by the California Jewelry Institute)
Georgian era inspiration is seen in the resurgence of the rose cut faceting styles and even some modernly cut interpretations of the old mine cut diamond. The salt and pepper diamond and champagne diamond trend lends itself to the grayish as well as warmer hues diamonds often used during this time. The use of the lover’s knot motif is also one that presents itself now and again.
The characteristic motifs of the Victorian era that we are seeing present themselves in jewelry today include serpents, stars, crescents, ivy, vines & leaves, hearts, bows, scrollwork, owers, ligree, and personalized monograms to name a few. The monogram stick pin for a groom to wear on his suit jacket is currently trending. We are also seeing more yellow gold again as was the norm for the Victorian era along with combining multiple colors of gold. Often seen is rose and yellow gold since white gold wasn’t created until years later and a hot enough torch to work with platinum wasn’t available until the end of this movement.
Art Nouveau Era Jewelry Box
The jewelry history timeline is expansive and there are many incredible design eras of the past that jewelry designs of today draw inspiration from.
Edwardian Era Detailing
We are brought back to an Arts & Crafts vibe with the growing number of artisan festivals and markets that feature jewelry makers selling handmade pieces in silver with affordable cabochon cut gemstones such as amethyst, moonstone, opal, and malachite to name a few. These artisans often use texture such as beaten hammered metalwork or decorative wrapped metal wire.
Bees, dragonflies, and butterflies seem to be popular in jewelry of today as was also true for the Art Nouveau era. Designers are also being creative with the use of asymmetry. Art Nouveau was known for using enameling techniques and it is nice to see designers working more with enamel again using it as a pop of color.
Art Deco Era Bracelet
Antique Jewellery Guide
Edwardian inspiration can be seen in more opulent lacy diamond intensive designs. Bows and ribbons have been a designer favorite and are motifs that have circulated throughout history. Fine milgrain beading, which became incredibly popular in the early 20th century is still very much desired and used now. Knife edge settings remain a classic staple for engagement ring options. Montana sapphire seems to be extremely desirable the last few years as was also true for Edwardian times. The toi et moi ring design rst gained attention in 1796, however I tend to associate it with the Edwardian era and Art Deco as it was widely popular during this time. We have seen celebrities recently select the toi et moi look for their engagement rings and more and more designers are bringing back this timeless classic.
Art Deco geometric looks in white metal will forever be in use. Step cuts, patterns and architectural designs with contrasting jewel tones never cease to grace the jewelry showcases. The use of invisible settings is very much incorporated today to offer a seamless continuous look. Trapeze cut, triangle cut, and half-moon cut accent diamonds are also often selected as accent diamonds today. We are seeing long strands of pearls again bringing back 1920’s elegance.
Allison-Kaufman Co.
14k Gold and fancy cut
diamond ring .50 TW
MSRP $4,254
800.800.8908
Bold statement designs draw some reference from the Retro Modern Era with wide hoop earrings and cocktail rings with large gemstones.
Do you share my passion for jewelry history? My personal antique & vintage jewelry guide has been formatted into a beautiful digital reference guide. If you are curious, send an email to heirloom@ stjewelleryappraisal. com and my team will send you the link.
Next time you browse the jewelry showcases take a look to see what hints of history you can notice recirculating in current designs. What design movement of the past are you are personally drawn to?
